The Grand Union Overview
If burgers are your thing but the usual grimy joints serving them aren’t, then The Grand Union might just be the place for you. Located in the heart of Islington’s buzzing cosmopolitan Upper Street, the bar stands out with its old theatre-style façade and is the newest edition to the small London-based classic burger and cocktail chain.
Inside, the ambient lighting and relaxed atmosphere offer a welcome escape from the urban hustle and bustle. Although quite small, the high ceilings and well planned layout give the venue the impression of being a lot bigger. A row of high tables and stools sit along one side separated by Moroccan style wooden screens and leading to two more intimate corner booths. Opposite, a black velvet chaise longue, grand stand alone chairs and chandelier give an air of French vintage chic, a stark contrast to the traditional pub style area at the far end. In addition, bold floral wallpaper, boudoir-esque lamps, African masks, Oriental lanterns and a scattering of plants and flowers add to an eclectic décor that translates like a disastrous episode of Changing Rooms on paper, but works surprisingly well in reality. The result is a smart, yet, unpretentious venue that would appeal to a varied clientele and provide a great meeting place for first-daters, couples, after work drinks or small parties. The quirky tone translates throughout, from the rare pairing of cocktails and burgers, to the variety of musical genres that provide the soundtrack; soul, pop, indie and R&B, old and new.
Settling into a comfortable leather clad booth we perused a cocktail menu featuring a choice of over 20 tempting concoctions from classics to contemporary twists. Looking for inspiration I asked for the barman’s recommendation, taking my usual favourite of a Mojito into account, a Raspberry Twist was suggested. My friend opted for a Margarita. Our choices didn’t disappoint, they were well balanced and nicely presented. The bar also offers a good choice of champagnes, wines, spirits, juices and an ample selection of draught and bottled beers.
The Grand Union bar’s menu is primarily burger-focused, although the varied choice means there’s something to suit everyone’s tastes, including a selection of pre-orderable platters for larger groups to share. Although an avid carnivore I was pleased to see a vegetarian choice that doesn’t just consist of the usual mundane offerings; the Chargrilled Aubergine and Goats Cheeseburger sounds particularly tempting. After much deliberation I went for the Chicken and Camembert burger, while my friend opted for a Blue Cheeseburger.
Burgers are served alone and although generous enough to satisfy a smaller appetite, they can be supplemented with a side order from the selection of salads or chips on offer. We both went for chips and on the recommendation from the bartender, a selection of dips, including the intriguing sounding smoked chilli sauce.
The food arrived in good time, and looked impressive. My burger of chicken breast, lettuce, beef tomato, camembert and cranberry sauce in a soft sesame seeded bun, was moist, fresh and flavoursome. I sampled my friend’s and found it to be equally as good, the blue cheese gave it a nice kick.
The best aspect of the meal were the chips, which wouldn’t look out of place in an award-winning chippie, they were well seasoned, non greasy, and so tasty it seemed a crime to dip them in sauce – although the smoked chilli dip was a pleasant discovery. The secret? Maris Piper potatoes, hand cut, seasoned with sea salt and par-boiled before frying.
Our mid-week visit meant that the venue had a nice intimate buzz; the weekends are predictably busier with a DJ and 4am licence attracting the crowds.
Overall the Grand Union bar is a pleasant find. The fresh, well presented food, accommodating staff, unique decor and laid back atmosphere tick all the boxes for a great all-rounder, and it’s a far cry from your usual burger haunt.
Gabrielle Sander (Updated 04/06/2008)
Additional Info: Food, Non-Smoking Area
Nearby Venues:
- La Petite Auberge, French (0.04km)
- Ottolenghi (Islington), International (0.04km)
- Le Mercury, French (0.05km)
- La Porchetta Pizzeria (Islington), Italian (0.05km)
- Almeida, French (0.05km)
- Vineyard (The), [Other/Unclassified] (0.13km)
- La Piragua, International (0.13km)
- Tod's Grill, Eclectic (0.13km)
- Lucky Voice Private Karaoke, Pan Asian (0.14km)
- Cafe Ole, Spanish (0.14km)
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