Metro Bar & Grill (Angel, London) review on Fluid Eating

Metro Bar & Grill Overview

Halfway between Angel and Highbury-Islington corner lies Metro Bar and Grill, the latest addition to Upper Street’s fine selection of lively eating and drinking venues. Having formerly been home to an Asian-fusion gimmick restaurant, the space’s transformation into an elegant dining and drinking refuge is impressive. Management have tried to keep a “modern yet cosy” style – and apart from a slight overcrowding of tables, have succeeded in creating a sophisticated look,
promising a freshly prepared menu and a catalogue of trendy cocktails. But lovely décor aside, if anything is to draw you to Metro Bar and Grill – it’s the food.

We begin in an intimate corner for a giggle over an excellently concocted mojito and a platter of continental cheese and meats. Adorned with freshly sliced apples, melon and berries, the plate’s fellino and in-house cut parma ham were the perfect complements to the rich fromage – particularly the punchy Austrian smoked cheddar.

Moving from the lounge to an intimate caged-in area, we receive our mains, which are all creative, colourful and delectable – proving the chef’s talent in preparing assorted dishes without compromising on flavour (normally tough with such an extensive menu). My mate’s asparagus-stuffed chicken princess differed starkly from the Asian-style tuna steak we shared, which in turn was a complete departure from my hearty chilli, rice and spinach stuffed peppers.

Chef Andrew Stonehouse has over 30 years of fine dining experience preparing delicacies that range from modern English to Continental fusion – and the plan is to increasingly make this apparent to customers. The menu will be “taken up a notch” seasonally, we are told. But how far this can go remains a mystery, as our meal was pretty brilliant.

Chloe McCloskey (Updated 02/10/2007)

Additional Info: Food, Non-Smoking Area

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