El Cantara Overview
Restaurant authenticity is a risky business. More often than not, half-hearted attempts at decking out an eaterie in memorabilia reminiscent of its food’s country of origin make the place tacky and subsequently very un-authentic.
It is rare to enter a dining establishment and be truly transported. But when my friend Emma and I stepped off Soho’s Frith Street through the door of El Cantara, we travelled miles rather than metres. It was as though, in those five seconds, we’d taken a flight from Stansted to Marrakech, found our hotel, unpacked our bags and headed to the local restaurant for some first night food.
We ordered gin and tonics to get the holiday into full swing and admired our surroundings while picking at a delicious bowl of marinated olives. Imported mosaic tables, Mediterranean art and an old-fashioned wooden bar were just a few of the ingredients that made us feel as though we were dining in a North African back street. Sunlight shone in through the two huge shuttered-windows looking out onto the street and exotic background music accompanied the chatter and laughter of people enjoying early summer Soho.
Upon further inspection of the menu we learned El Cantara was a Spanish and Moroccan hybrid. To start, we ordered from the tapas menu and shared succulent charmoula sardinas, very crispy spinach and feta briwat (filo parcels) and feisty calamares pequenos (squid stuffed with rice and saffron). All were accompanied by a basket of freshly-made-on-the premises Moroccan flatbread. Portion sizes were perfect, leaving us already satisfied but wanting more – the sign of a good starter.
We got the wine on board to accompany our main courses. Despite the very impressive range of reds on the list we opted for house wine. Both varieties were met with our approval; Emma opted for a glass of red to complement her lamb tagine while I opted for light white with my pollo basque. Foodwise, both dishes won extra points for presentation. The colour of my red pepper, garlic and cream sauce was set beautifully against a black plate while Emma’s spectacular tagine turned heads on its journey to our table.
We were not disappointed on taste either. My strips of chicken were moist and the sauce had real body. Emma’s lamb was the most tender that either of us had ever tasted. Owner, Sam Mallach, explained that this was down to the high temperatures at which the meat was cooked. And, while it seems to focus on meat, El Cantara does also provide for vegetarians. There is a huge no-meat or fish tapas selection and both the tagine and couscous can be served with veg in place of meat.
Dessert was a huge debate. We didn’t need it but greed and a tempting menu fought through. We shared a homemade chocolate fondant, which came with an impressive milk-chocolate wafer and sipped on cups of fresh mint tea.
Gazing around at our fellow diners, we were unsurprised to see a couple, who appeared to be on a first date. A great choice, as the place is very romantic. Elsewhere groups of friends (mainly women) chatted over paella and albondigas. Service speed was tailored to our desired pace but I got the impression it could’ve been quicker if we’d wanted. Given the venue’s West End location, they are keen to encourage theatre goers.
There is no doubt that both Emma and I will be returning to El Cantara. Dining in that part of the capital is often a bank-breaker and although the place is not cheap, its fresh ingredients and cooked-from-scratch policy mean that quality is high. The restaurant offers belly dancing and live music on selected evenings. Its three floors also allow it to accommodate diners as a private venue.
I only hope that when we do go back and the secret of our little Spanish-Moroccan haven is out, it holds onto its authentic tavern feel. For in a city packed full of chain restaurants with a few foreign words scattered over the menu, that is what makes El Cantara really special.
Lucy Edge (Updated 17/06/2008)
Additional Info: Food, Hire Available, Children Allowed, Live Music, Outside Drinking, Late License
Nearby Venues:
- Delhi Brasserie, Indian (0.01km)
- Ronnie Scott's Jazz Club, International (0.01km)
- Chiang Mai, Thai (0.01km)
- Alastair Little, Modern Eclectic (0.02km)
- Barrafina, Tapas (0.02km)
- Bar Italia (Cafe Italia), Italian (0.03km)
- Saigon, Vietnamese (0.03km)
- Ravin Laurent, Modern European (0.03km)
- Balans Cafe (Soho), Eclectic (0.03km)
- Signor Zilli, Italian (0.03km)
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