A Fenestella Restaurant Overview
Trawling along the grey pavements of Lavender Hill in search of supper, you’ll pass restaurant after restaurant; Indian, Italian, Indonesian – name a nationality and it’s probably there. The difficulty is, however, choosing where to dine. I can’t pretend to have tried them all, but there is one place that I’ll definitely be heading back to.
Take a step inside ‘A Fenestella and those grey pavements are soon forgotten. This is the quintessential Italian job; wobbly wooden tables with crisp white linen, smooth terracotta-tiled walls and candles that flicker as the snake-hipped waiters squeeze by. A huge wood-fired pizza oven belts out hot air scented with fresh herbs and baking bread. The tables are packed, mostly with Italians, and people are already queuing outside.
We’ve barely even peeked at the menu when Mario, the Owner, strides over with a hearty handshake and a plate of brushetta to nibble on. Despite the heat, he’s immaculately dressed in a suit, keeping a watchful eye on the tables. Mario has been importing fresh produce for the likes of Harvey Nichols and Harrods for several years – carefully selected direct from small producers in Italy – but it wasn’t until 2004 that he teamed up with restaurateur Kinder Baldascino to offer Londoners ‘A Fenestella, ‘a window’ into the flavours of Neapolitan Italy.
The menu is extensive and peppered with inventive spellings that reassure you that it really was written by Italians. From 12 starters on offer, I chose Antipasto Mistro (£5.50) – a selection of highlights from the antipasto table, perfect for people who can’t make decisions. My companion’s Gamberoni Al Guazzetto (£8.95), tiger prawns with cherry tomatoes, garlic and chilli were also excellent, drizzled with olive oil and still sizzling from the oven.
I’m always happy to ask for recommendation when I try a new restaurant but was surprised when the waiter suggested the Magherita. “What, just tomatoes and mozzarella?” I said. But trust me; he really knew what he was talking about. For £6.50, I had one of the best pizzas of my life; a thin, smoky crust, singed from the wood-fired oven; thick rounds of creamy mozzarella melting into the glistening tomato layer; fresh basil and black pepper scattered over the top. It’s so simple but with such good quality ingredients, you really can’t beat that combination of flavours.
Mario’s attention to detail doesn’t stop at the food. The wine list ranges from £11.50 to £89.50 a bottle, with some really good value options as well as some treats like the Barolo la Tur (£51.50). Even if you can’t manage a dessert, you’ll get a complimentary limoncello with your coffee, straight from the freezer – exactly as it should be.
Bustling, busy and teetering on the edge of chaos, 'A Fenestella is a great value, authentic and romantic place to dine. But don’t be fooled by the laid-back atmosphere; from the crunch of the pizza crusts to the melt-in-the-mouth mozzarella, Mario and Kinder have got all the details absolutely spot on, offering a hearty, homely brand of Italian cuisine that even their Mamas would be proud of. (Updated 16/09/2005)
Additional Info: Food, Children Allowed, Cloakroom, Live Music, Private Rooms
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